Inspectors check food safety, not food quality. Quality is more like Michelin star rating which is totally optional. Same for fire safety codes.

Possibly a consumer air dryer problem, something-something safety. Check professional ones like Parlux, the one I checked has 2 dials: airflow and temperature. Turns on by air dial. They are also conveniently under the thumb so you can adjust without looking.

Yes it's safety related. Turning the heater on while the airflow if off is a sure way to start a fire.

It could be fixed with a relay or a solid state switch on the heater, or with a multipolar toggle on the airspeed. But that's several cents more expensive than making it turn on at the heater switch.

I'm not following, that's exactly what I want, I want the fan control to also turn off/on, so fan at 0 = off, fan > 0 = on.

Did you try using high CRI LEDs with color remperature of 2700K–3000K? When I switched from halogen to LED I did just that and the difference is not noticeable, you'll have the same yellowish tint and very natural looking colours. Even with expensive bulbs, extra longevity covers for higher cost.

Not sure if I'm doing something wrong, or just living in a place where the power is so bad, it causes premature failures.

The claimed extra longevity of LED bulbs has not materialized for me.

They seem to fail at roughly the same frequency that incandescent bulbs did in my home, which makes them about 10x to 15x more expensive.

Many complain about this, because they have been fooled into buying low-quality lamps, with bad cooling or bad electronic components.

I have many Philips LED lamps bought some 10 to 15 years ago, which were put in Edison sockets for incandescent lamps, and none of them has become defective during all these years.

However, even at that time, it was not their cheapest model, but one that was claimed to be long-life and I believe that later they have discontinued that model in favor of cheaper lamps.

I have no idea which vendor of LED lamps might sell good LED lamps today, because I never had to search for replacements. I assume that good LED lamps must still be available, but one must not impulse buy them, but one must check carefully the specifications of the lamps and the credibility of the vendor, before making a purchase decision.

I did choose very expensive options (high CRI and ~$14/ea), but I think the problem is that I have enclosed glass lamps from the 60's that don't ventilate heat properly for the LEDs, so they fail every year or 2, just like the incandecents used to.

2700 is really cool. To the GP, if you're looking for something more like daylight but not noticeably yellow, try 3600k or thereabouts.

The actual temperature of the sun is over 5000k (yes, the k in lightbulb temperature corresponds to the Kelvin scale of temperature) but after being scattered by our atmosphere it appears cooler. And where did all that extra light go? It was scattered around, making the sky blue!

The color of the solar light depends on the proportion of yellowish direct solar light and bluish sky light that fall on an object.

When the sky is covered by clouds, which mix the direct Sun light and the sky light, you get a color much closer to the true color of the Sun.

3700-4500 is my range I like these days

If I could run different lighting after sunset, I'd run something high-CRI in your range during the day and a low-CRI 3000 after sunset.

As it is, I compromise.

There are LED lamps which have a "warm dim" feature so that the appear oranger as you reduce the brightness.

Thanks, that's great to know! However, I also had to remove the high-CRI lights from some lamps because I found that they disturb my sleep if I have them on in the hours before bedtime.

I live in a 240-volt country, though, and I've never seen a dimmer switch here.

Personally I find 2700k-rated LED to not even be low-k enough to match incandescent.

I do not like 2700 K to 3000 K lamps, which are obviously yellowish and regardless how high their CRI may be they distort the colors of clothes or any other objects.

I also do not like the bluish cheap 6500 K lamps.

I consider optimum the 4000 K lamps. This appear white with only a very-slightly yellowish hue, which allows the perception of the natural colors of most objects, but it still provides a warmer sensation than a strictly neutral white color (i.e. one around 5500 K).

Not author, but in the past I was just going through papers on biggest conferences for the last year and checked what sounded interesting for my own education. But it was a bit of a chore. What I tried now is use gemini thinking research and asked it to do just that, go through main software/hardware conferences for last 3 years, find me papers on the topics of interest and give summary and links. The result is pretty good!

As other comment suggests, FiiO does adapters like that, also Qudelix. Depends on what you mean by 'like AirPod Pros'. You won't get ANC, mic is so-so I believe and you still have wires, but you get LDAC/aptX HD codec, it can still act as USB DAC if you forgot to charge it, it has very capable DSP EQ that allows loading headphone profiles. I use AirPods Pro as muffs on transit and concerts which is a killer feature for me, but use Qudelix dongle with IEMs for music.

So is food. If we switch to IV feeding you can also avoid many harms food and drink brings. We can do a soylent green as a stopgap.

I'm not a big fan of eating, so yes please? Even if I then want to indulge in something tasty every now and then, the option to just 'top up' without actually eating is hugely attractive.

AutoNotification app can block persistent notifications if I understand correctly what it is. Hides things like "Wifi Calling" that you can't normally disable, swipe. Doesn't require root. So there might be the way. It became less reliable on latest samsung phones, but works on pixels afaik.

Thanks for the heads up! Will take a look at it.

At least in UK, you'll need a physical token to do that. And you can't have both app and token. So if you had an app that is now not working, it'll take some time to get a token and restore your bank access.

I have both the app (“digital key”) and a physical RSA token with my bank in the UK.

How did you manage to do that? Whenever I tried to activate the app it was asking me to create a digital key and warning me that I'm going to lose ability to use physical token.

There is actually mobile banking for these cases. Which at least for HSBC requires your account details, a (Up to? I don't know the minimum) 10 digit (numeric) pin and you have to say "My Voice is My Password" which sounds like complete theatre.

Most likely radars as used in microwave presence/movement sensors.

Curious if you saw any difference in far IR vs near IR on cameras with removed filters. When I tried camera without filter or camera with IR filter (one that only lets IR through and look redish black to naked eye) attached I had nice b/w images of trees on long exposures or better pictures of tv remote leds. But if I make a picture of an iron or pan they look the same when either cold or hot. This is very different from thermal cameras I used where you can clearly see unevennes of the pan heat, dark image on tshirt being warmer on the sun, person at night etc. I can speculate that thermal exhaust falls into the second category.